Climbing Expedition Report

Weissmies

Swiss Alps

Introduction: Solo ascent of the Weissmies

June 25, 2020

I went to Wallis in Switzerland with my mother and brother at the end of June for a small holiday. At least, they went on holiday and for me it was a good time to go climbing again. The weather was going to be beautiful throughout the period so luck was on our side. After a traffic-free drive through France we arrived at the house in Bitsch, located high above the Rhone Valley. The next day I had planned a solo tour on the 4017 meter high Weissmies so we drove back to Saas-Grund on time. I jumped in the elevator and the rest went on their own. The Hohsaas cable car took me to an altitude of about 3200 meters and from there I walked to the Hohsaashütte where I can walk onto the glacier. The Trift Glacier on the Weissmies is one of the most unstable glaciers in Valais. So be careful. Fortunately I was not alone on the mountain and I first followed a guide with a customer. After the flat part I overtook them and dived into the steep snow wall. Along the way I met a guide who felt it necessary to point out to me that the mountain is not a playground. Thanks for the advice, I was completely unaware of that. After the steep part I reached the wide snow ridge and the top came closer. A little more pushing and then I was at the top. An hour and a half from the hut to the top, not bad! It was quite windy at the top so I quickly took a few pictures and quickly went back down.

A Special Descent: Chatting at the hut*

In less than an hour I was safely back at the hut. When I arrived at the cable car station it turned out to be having some kind of siesta so I had to wait almost an hour. Oh well, then we’ll just have an Ice Tea at the hut. The terrace was full of guests and many of them were watching me. I was wondering why they did that until I got talking to them. It turned out they had been following me with binoculars. Well, when do you finally see such a madman running up a mountain alone? When the cable car was running again, I went down and had a relaxing day. Finally, the next day a new mission was planned: The 4199 meter high Rimpfischhorn.

A Speed Ascent: Weissmies Succes

I reached the top of the Weissmies in an hour and a half. Through years of training I could clearly see results in the speed at which I could walk upstairs. Being fit in the mountains is essential. Speed ​​is safety and it increases the fun you experience during the climb. No doubt there are many who can do it even faster than me. But don’t forget that the highest mountain in the Netherlands is 322 meters. 😉

Weissmies

Detail

The Weissmies standing at 4017 meters in the Swiss Alps, offers a ascent over an unstable glacier. The mountain is often closed for climbing early in the season for above reason. The normal route on thispeak must be done early in the year and make sure you are never alone. Even though I chooce to do it solo, this is absolutely not reommended.

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