Saturday, the 15th of July 2023, marked the pinnacle of our alpine adventure: the ascent of the 4,221-meter Zinalrothorn. This peak was the centerpiece of my week, and I was determined to tackle it with vigor and well-rested. The alarm sounded at 3:00 AM, signifying the start of our day, though breakfast at this hour was always a challenge. Nevertheless, we knew the importance of fueling up before embarking on a demanding mountain climb. After breakfast, we prepared for our journey, setting out from the hut.
Our initial path led us across a glacier, the snow still relatively soft. Fortunately, this section wasn’t extensive, and we soon reached the renowned ‘Wasserloch.’ This rocky couloir served as a conduit for the melting waters from the glacier above. It was here that we realized the popularity of this mountain on weekends, which translated to lengthy waiting times and an increased risk of falling rocks due to the large number of climbers. After passing through the ‘Wasserloch,’ we encountered a rocky and scree-covered section that left me with some doubts. However, Wilco assured us that we were on the right track, and who was I to disagree? 😊
Upon completing the rocky section, we returned to a glacier, and the summit came into view. The snowy ridge led us to the couloir, which you follow before veering right onto the summit ridge. As we approached the couloir’s entry point, we were met with a bustling scene, and we initially attempted a higher route to avoid the congestion. However, we encountered a slow-moving roped team there, so we decided to descend back into the couloir.
The standard route veered slightly to the left, and although we thought this might save us time, it involved more technical climbing. After surmounting the couloir, we made our way onto the summit ridge, joining many others who were attempting the same feat. Several beautiful yet challenging technical sections awaited us before, after approximately five hours, we finally reached the summit.
The summit, as expected, was crowded, prompting us to quickly snap a few photos and prepare for our descent. Abseiling would be too time-consuming, so we chose to downclimb the entire route. While some sections were challenging to descend, we managed without mishap.
As we made our way down, the mountain remained bustling with climbers heading both up and down. Almost near the end of our descent, my ice axe got caught on a rock and slipped out of my belt, plummeting down the mountain. It was a disappointment, but I held out hope that I might find it on the glacier.
Once back on the glacier, I unroped myself and ventured towards the rock face to see if I could spot my lost ice axe. I half-joked about not wanting to fall into a crevasse, but Wilco reassured me that they would wait for me – how considerate!
To my sheer luck, I located my ice axe almost immediately, a moment of relief and elation. I swiftly rejoined the group and began the descent back to the hut.
Upon returning to the hut, we were fortunate to find three vacant reclining chairs. The warm weather prompted us to remove our shirts, and we lounged in the sunshine, allowing our bodies to recover.
Our journey down brought us to Hotel du Trift, where Johan awaited us. We enjoyed a delicious lunch at our friend Hugo’s establishment, who generously offered a complimentary coffee to ease the shock of the bill. Switzerland had once again proven to be an expensive country.
Following lunch, we continued our descent into Zermatt, a town teeming with horse-drawn carriages, Japanese tourists, and shops brimming with luxury watches. Eager to escape the bustling atmosphere, we made a beeline for the train station, en route to Täsch.
Originally, our plan was to stay in the Berner Oberland region, allowing us to complete the car train journey beforehand. However, due to our difficulty in finding a suitable hotel, we decided to alter our course. In Visp, we stumbled upon a charming hotel, formerly a school. Our spacious room accommodated eight, a stroke of luck for our group of four.
We each indulged in a well-deserved shower, followed by a stroll to the town center. At a local pizzeria, we savored a delightful meal, closing out the week with good food, a few beers, and enjoyable conversations. It was yet another remarkable week of alpine climbing, and we eagerly anticipated our next adventure.




The summit was bustling, prompting a quick photoshoot before the descent. A mishap occurred as my ice axe slipped down the mountain, but a stroke of luck led to its immediate recovery. The descent, which involved downclimbing the entire route, presented challenges but was executed without incident. Back at the hut, a relaxing respite under the Swiss sun marked the end of a fulfilling climbing week, leading us to conclude our alpine adventure with camaraderie, laughter, and anticipation for future exploits.
The Zinalrothorn, standing at 4,221 meters, presents a challenging and crowded alpine ascent with its renowned ‘Wasserloch’ couloir, technical summit ridge, and breathtaking views, making it a coveted peak in the Swiss Alps.
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