Mont Blanc

Leaving the hut, we expected to find the entry point of the route within 1.5 hours. However, the snow and ice markings that typically guided climbers to the starting point were absent. After some searching, we eventually located the unmarked entry. The base was littered with loose stones, some frequently tumbling down the slope. Nevertheless, we pressed onward, hoping for improved conditions on the ridge of rocky needles. Before we could reach the col du Diable (3,955m), we encountered insurmountable difficulties due to the absence of a snow and ice chute in the couloir.

Refusing to turn back, we traversed through the face of the mountain until we found a relatively stable route upwards. Navigating past the last two rocky needles, we had to bypass the most challenging one, L’Isolée (4,114m, 5c), as the entry was too slippery for our liking, without visible anchor points for protection equipment. Once atop the ridge, the sun rose, revealing the perilous condition of the route, littered with loose stones, sand, and scree. However, the allure of the rocky needles beckoned.

First, we had to reach the col du Diable, which was impossible without the expected snow and ice chute. We were faced with a difficult decision: should we turn back? Absolutely not; that wasn’t our style. We forged onward, ascending via a relatively stable section of rock. We left L’Isolée behind due to treacherous entry conditions, where we couldn’t find proper anchor points for climbing protection equipment. As we reached the ridge’s peak, the sun graced us with its warmth. We ascended the long rocky ridge to the Mont Blanc du Tacul, our first 4,000-meter peak of the day, offering an unparalleled panoramic view. This climb granted us breathtaking vistas, particularly along the razor-sharp ridge.

From the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul (4,248m), we spotted the distant Mont Blanc (4,807m), beckoning us with its silhouette 600 meters higher. It was 11:00 AM, and we had spent 8.5 hours climbing. Bart and I exchanged glances, and a broad smile crept across our faces. The thought of reaching the Mont Blanc, a promise made to Bart’s sponsors, inspired us. Conditions were ideal, so why not? The only risks were the arduous, drawn-out descent through mushy snow and uncertainty about our return to the hut. Plus, we had minimal provisions – just one liter of water and four energy bars.

In the end, there was no question; we were going for it. After descending the Mont Blanc du Tacul, we climbed a steep snow face. Unfortunately, the soft snow, coupled with the steep incline, made it challenging. Our way back down later in the day presented even more difficulties. Descending through the normal route was not an option due to the risk of falling rocks in the Grand Couloir after the Gouter Hut. Carefully, under a massive serac, we stepped our way through the steep Mont Maudit wall, occasionally sinking up to our knees in the soft, deep snow. The snow had a yellowish hue due to Saharan sand, causing it to melt even faster and making it easier to sink. The Mont Blanc ascent lay ahead of us.

First the route goes back down to a col. Before you get here you have already overcome the necessary crevasses. It remains extremely tricky because the walls of the muscles can collapse at any moment. We take a short break at the col. A very small sip of water to soothe the very dry throat and then one of the last energy bars in it. The pace has now slowed considerably. Is it the altitude or the dehydration? We know from research that one percent moisture loss equals 20% performance loss. We decide to leave the backpack on a flat area. After all, we will come back here again. This saves the weight of an extra rope, all the rock climbing equipment, extra climbing shoes, etc. We only take the bare essentials with us. The last water, an extra jacket, pickle, ski pole, etc. It seems like you can see the top. But I know from experience that it is a snow dome that just keeps rising. With an eye on infinity and a steady pace, we force ourselves not to give up. Bart briefly asks whether it is not an option to sleep in the Cosmique hut (France) instead of the more distant Torino hut (Italy). But we know that this is not convenient the next day because the car is in Italy. First the top. Things are going really slowly now and Bart indicates that he is suffering from the altitude. But at the same time he shouts: we’re going to get him! It is now 1:00 PM, but we want to be at the top by 2:00 PM. The last part is a zigzag uphill that seems to have no end. Every time you think there will be 3 more hairpin bends and then we will finally be at the top. But appearances are deceiving. It has now started to blow a bit and the wind is very cold. We put on an extra coat. Fortunately the snow/firn is hard here.

And finally, with a lot of pushing, we reach the dreamed-of top of Mont Blanc (4807m), the roof of Europe (actually western Europe) at 2 p.m. The highlight of To the Top for Kika has been achieved. Bart and I fall into each other’s arms, almost crying. I film Bart and Bart shouts over the wind that he can hardly talk anymore. On the one hand because of the dry mouth, but even more because of the emotion. Bart thanks me and I pat him on the shoulders and compliment him. Nicely done man! It worked, who could have imagined that? After all, Mont Blanc is officially closed to climbers. That makes it extra special. Because of the cold wind and the long return journey ahead of us, we stay at the top for a short time. The view is magical. We record everything and descend again.