Dufourspitze
Climbing Expedition Report
Dufourspitze
Gabelhorn
Introduction: Challenging the Alps
On July 23, 2018, my sights were set on a remarkable mountaineering achievement – conquering the Dufourspitze. This would be my first ascent of a 4,000-meter peak, and I was eagerly anticipating the adventure. One year earlier, I had attempted to reach the summit of Zugspitze on a wintry October day, but now, I was better prepared and ready for this new challenge.
Unbeknownst to me, my chosen route, the Rey ridge, was a D-rated climb – a true challenge for a novice like me. However, my naivety led me to book this adventure with an Italian guiding agency in the Aosta Valley. My primary reason for choosing this peak was simple – it was the highest in Switzerland, a country close to my heart due to family ties.
In preparation for this adventure, I had dedicated myself to rigorous training to ensure I was in optimal condition for the climb. I met my guide, Claudio, at the cable car station, and together we embarked on the ascent. After arriving at the mountain station, we commenced our journey towards the hut. The path led across a glacier and rocky terrain with chains for support. Rifugio Gnifetti, the hut where we’d spend the night, awaited us at an elevation of 3,647 meters.
This hut was my first experience of an alpine refuge, with more than a hundred sleeping spots. The grandeur of it all impressed me, but my highlight was undoubtedly the authentic Italian cuisine. After dinner, I joined the guides in a room where they enjoyed shots of Genepy, a local herbal liqueur. I, too, was offered a shot, which I gladly accepted. Post-dinner, I completed my nighttime routine of teeth brushing and headed to the dormitory. However, the night ahead was less than pleasant. Sleep was elusive at this altitude, and my restless night began.
Ascending Dufourspitze: A Daunting Challenge
July 24, 2018, saw me rise to the alarm clock’s chime. Fortunately, I was already wide awake, the challenging altitude refusing to let me rest. We ate breakfast and drank coffee to awaken our senses before packing our gear and heading toward the glacier. We first descended a bit from the hut and reached a vast ice bowl. From there, we began a climb to Lys Col, perched at over 4,000 meters above sea level, before descending towards the ridge.
While on the glacier, I began to notice the effects of altitude. I felt disoriented, struggled to maintain pace, and sensed the first signs of altitude sickness. However, I’m not one to complain or give up, so we proceeded to climb the Rey ridge. Focused on survival, I can’t recall the exact details of the ridge’s challenges, but I do remember feeling a longing for any helicopter passing by to whisk me away from this demanding climb. However, we persevered, and after several hours, the terrain became more manageable, and the small summit cross came into view. Victory was within reach! Just a short distance remained before I stood on the Dufourspitze’s peak, the highest mountain in Switzerland at 4,634 meters and the third-highest peak in the Alps, following the Mont Blanc twins. I’m not typically an emotional person, but this was undoubtedly a significant personal triumph. I had gained a new understanding of the physical and mental demands of climbing above 4,000 meters, having spent over 12 hours on this challenging ascent. The view from the summit was nothing short of breathtaking, especially looking down at the Macugnaga valley.
However, the moment to descend arrived, and this proved to be quite an undertaking. We first descended towards the col between Dufourspitze and Zumsteinzpitze. At the base of the col, we encountered a tricky section where I clung to the wall with an ice axe and one hand while looking down at the 2,500-meter-high east face – a harrowing experience for an inexperienced climber. After surviving this episode, we continued along the snow ridge towards the summit of Zumsteinzpitze, reaching it with every ounce of energy I had left.
I snapped a quick photo and began the descent, craving oxygen. We took a brief break at the hut to recover before the final leg to the cable car. Upon reaching the valley, Claudio and I bid farewell, with plans to climb together more frequently. Despite my inexperience, he was pleased with my climbing abilities. Exhausted yet fulfilled, I turned in early, laden with experiences and wisdom gained in the world of mountaineering.
The Team Spirit
of Dufourspitze's Ascent
In retrospect, my ascent of Dufourspitze underscored the vital role of teamwork in alpine pursuits. From the initial meeting with my guide, Claudio, to the challenging moments on the Rey ridge and the daunting descents, collaboration was intrinsic to our success. Claudio’s guidance, encouragement, and assessment of my climbing abilities were instrumental in overcoming the complexities of the climb. The shared experiences, the reliance on each other’s skills, and the mutual celebration of triumphs fostered a strong bond. This ascent not only symbolized a personal achievement but also highlighted the synergy of teamwork in navigating the unpredictable terrain of high-altitude mountaineering. As we parted ways with plans for future climbs, the ascent of Dufourspitze became not just an individual conquest but a testament to the collaborative spirit that defines alpine endeavors.
Dufourspitze
Detail
Dufourspitze, towering at 4,634 meters, stands as Switzerland’s loftiest peak and the third-highest summit in the Alps, offering climbers a formidable yet rewarding challenge.
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