Wetterhorn / Jungfrau / Mönch
Climbing Expedition Report
Berner
Oberland
Introduction: Setting Off for the Berner Oberland
On the 28th and 29th of September 2023, I embarked on a thrilling mountain adventure in the heart of Berner Oberland, Switzerland. This journey would bring me closer to the majestic peaks of the Swiss Alps, and I was joined by my friends Bennie, Stefan, Johan, and Ludwig. We had chosen Grindelwald as our rendezvous point, and the trip began with high expectations and a sense of excitement.
Day 1: Ascent to Glecksteinhütte
Our journey commenced as we arrived in Grindelwald after a tranquil drive. After parking the camper, we packed our climbing gear into our backpacks and set off on a 3.5-hour trek to the Glecksteinhütte, nestled at the foot of the Wetterhorn at an elevation of 2,317 meters. As always, the hike to the hut can be quite an adventure after a long car ride. But we were determined, and by evening, we were sitting down to a hearty dinner at the hut.
Stefan wasn’t feeling well and decided to retire to bed right after the meal. Johan, Ludwig, Bennie, and I enjoyed a relaxing post-dinner drink and conversation as we prepared for the challenges of the following day.
Day 2: The Ascent of Wetterhorn
We set our alarms for 4:45 AM the next morning to fuel up with breakfast and start our ascent to Wetterhorn, which stands tall at 3,692 meters. Our plan was to conquer this mountain via the Willsgrätli route, a beautiful AD+ rated climb. The initial part of the ascent was predominantly a hiking trail that transitioned into a glacier crossing after a little over an hour.
The glacier was relatively small and posed no challenge. However, once off the glacier, we resumed the hike, transitioning to rock. Unfortunately, our decision to climb vertically uphill led us into loose scree, making progress slow and difficult. We realized we had strayed from the intended path, but we eventually found our way back to the correct route and continued the climb along the stunning ridge.
Johan and Ludwig were slightly ahead of Bennie, Stefan, and me. The pace was slower than we anticipated, and doubt began to creep in regarding our ability to reach the summit within our desired timeframe. We met a guide and his client on their way down and inquired about the remaining time to the summit. They estimated it would take us at least another hour and a half, without considering the descent. Reluctantly, we made the tough decision to turn back. Johan and Ludwig climbed a bit further, but they also had to descend without reaching the summit.
Sometimes, making a wise decision is essential, even if it’s disappointing. We retraced our steps, descended to the glacier, and crossed it successfully this time. Our confidence boosted, we rejoined the right path and continued our descent. Upon reaching the hut, we regrouped, had a drink, collected our gear, and began our journey back to the valley. While we hadn’t summited, it was a beautiful and enlightening day. We all agreed that the Willsgrätli route on Wetterhorn remained on our climbing bucket lists.
Day 3: Attempting Jungfrau
On September 30, 2023, we rose early once again to catch the first train to Jungfraujoch. Unfortunately, Stefan was still unwell, so he remained in the valley. We drove to the Jungfraujoch valley station where Johan and Ludwig were already waiting for us.
Riding up to the Eigergletscher station in the Eiger Express at 7:15 AM, we then transferred to the train that would take us to the highest train station in Europe at 3,454 meters. Upon arrival, we enjoyed a quick coffee before making our way towards the Jungfrau, a 4,153-meter peak.
After a short hike on the glacier, we reached the South-Southeast Ridge of the mountain. Initially, we were under the impression that the standard route led directly to the saddle across the glacier. However, no tracks led there, so we decided to traverse the ridge instead. After climbing along the ridge for a while, we encountered an anchor point with well-known crampon scratches on the rocks. It seemed like the route we should be on.
Continuing to the right of the ridge, we soon found ourselves in challenging terrain, fighting through loose rocks. Eventually, we realized that we had taken a wrong turn. After getting back on the right path, we began ascending the beautiful ridge. Johan and Ludwig were slightly ahead of Bennie, Stefan, and me.
Although the pace wasn’t exceptionally fast, we began to have concerns about whether we could reach the summit within our time frame. When we met a guide and his client descending, we asked about the remaining time to the top. They estimated it would take us at least another hour and a half without considering the descent. We had to make another difficult decision, and this time, we decided to turn back.
We retraced our steps, descended the same route, and crossed the glacier once more. We continued our descent, and at the Jungfraujoch station, we were greeted by crowds of Asian tourists, immersed in the spectacular sights. We hopped on the first train down, and upon our return to Grindelwald around 1 PM, we were able to reflect on the day’s experiences.
Bennie had prepared a lunchbox for Johan and Ludwig, and for me, he had made a few delicious egg sandwiches. After a refreshing shower, we embarked on our journey back to the Netherlands. Despite not reaching the summit, the trip was an incredible and enlightening adventure.
Day 4: A Successful Ascent of Mönch
The next morning, during breakfast, Bennie told us that he had spent the entire night awake, feeling unwell. Johan and Ludwig had also had a restless night but still felt up for the ascent of Mönch. They were determined not to return home without summiting a peak.
After breakfast, we left the hut, and Bennie decided to return to bed in the hope of getting some rest and recovery. The rest of us set off, heading towards Jungfraujoch, and then turned right towards the ridge’s entry point. There was a sort of ladder at the base of the ridge, making it easier to ascend the smooth rocks.
Following the ladder, a relatively straightforward rock ridge led us to the steeper snow and ice sections. The snow ridge was breathtaking, suspended on both sides, and the drop-offs were significant. One had to be extremely cautious.
As we reached the end of the ridge, we attached our crampons and ascended an ice wall, with the famous snow ridge ahead of us. This ridge was stunning, with exposure on both sides – tripping here was not an option.
Once we reached the top of our first, but also last 4,000-meter peak of the trip, we met two other climbers who had descended via the well-known Nollen route on the north face of the mountain. After taking summit photos, we retraced our steps.
At the ice wall, we secured ourselves for a brief rappel, mainly for safety, and then proceeded along the rock ridge toward the ladder. Just as we approached the ladder, a group of three climbers was ascending. The rearmost climber was an older man, a sight I always found amazing – such fitness at an advanced age.
We exchanged a few respectful gestures, I patting his shoulder, and he tapping my leg in gratitude. We walked to the Jungfraujoch’s restaurant, only to be welcomed by the chaotic buzz of tourists, including zip lines, helicopters, and long queues.
Eager to escape the commotion, we took the first train down and then hopped on the Eiger Express. We arrived in Grindelwald around 1 PM.
As we dined in the restaurant of the Eiger Lodge, Bennie, Stefan, and I decided to retire to the camper for the night. Johan and Ludwig had already planned to stay at the lodge.
This trip, despite not achieving all our intended summits, was not only an extraordinary experience but also a valuable learning opportunity.
After ascending the ridge for a bit, we reached a point with the well-known scratches from crampons on the rocks. We assumed this was the route, so we climbed to the right of the ridge, which turned out to be quite challenging terrain. Later, we realized we had taken the wrong path. Nonetheless, we eventually rejoined the correct route after some time, ascending the beautiful ridge. Johan and Ludwig were slightly above us, with a rather slow pace. We started to doubt whether we’d reach the summit in time. We met a guide and a client who were already descending. We asked them about the remaining time to the summit, and they estimated it would take us at least another hour and a half, not counting the descent time. Reluctantly, we decided to turn back. Johan and Ludwig continued a bit further. Disappointing as it was, making the right call was essential.
We descended back to the point where we’d initially ventured into the rocky terrain and found the correct path, which was much easier. After two short abseils and a bit of scrambling, we were back on the glacier. We continued our way back to Jungfraujoch. Along the way,
Conclusion: Reflecting on the Adventure
As the sun rose on October 1, 2023, we found ourselves gathered at the breakfast table. Bennie recounted his sleepless night and lingering illness, while Johan and Ludwig expressed their determination to tackle the Mönch, their spirits undiminished by previous challenges. After breakfast, we left the hut. While Bennie returned to bed in hopes of recovering, the rest of us set out to tackle the day. We made our way towards Jungfraujoch, then veered to the right to access the ridge.
There, a ladder awaited us at the base of the ridge, facilitating our ascent on the smooth rock. We continued along a straightforward rock ridge, at times requiring light climbing. Reaching the end of the rock ridge, we strapped on our crampons to tackle the ice wall and confront the renowned snow ridge – a breathtaking and precarious path. Following this, we finally stood atop our first and last 4,000-meter peak of the trip. Summit photos were taken, and then we made the same journey in reverse.
Upon returning to the ice wall, we descended by rappelling. At the rock ridge, we continued along the right path, and soon approached the ladder. Just before reaching it, we encountered a group of three climbers who were ascending. The last of these climbers was an older gentleman, a sight that I have always found inspiring. It’s truly remarkable to see such fitness and determination at an advanced age.
We shared a few gestures of respect, with me patting his shoulder, and he responding with gentle taps on my leg in gratitude. As we moved on to the Jungfraujoch restaurant, we were met with the bustling scene of tourists, complete with zip lines, helicopters, and long lines. Eager to leave behind the tourist commotion, we took the first available train back and then embarked on the Eiger Express, finally reaching Grindelwald around 1 PM.
During lunch at the restaurant of the Eiger Lodge, Bennie, Stefan, and I decided to spend the night in our camper. Johan and Ludwig had opted to stay in the lodge. Though we had not achieved all the summits we had initially intended, the journey had been an extraordinary experience, filled with lessons learned and memories to cherish.
Teamwork Triumphs:
Overcoming Challenges Together
In the face of challenging mountain ascents, my recent Swiss alpine adventures taught us the invaluable power of teamwork. Whether making a tough call to turn back from a summit or successfully navigating complex terrain, our journey was a testament to the strength of collaboration. When one member faced illness, others stepped up, ensuring their safety and comfort. Together, we reinforced the understanding that shared objectives and mutual support are the bedrock of triumphant endeavors, and our shared commitment to each other helped transform obstacles into opportunities for growth and camaraderie.
Berner Oberland,
Detail
Berner Oberland, nestled in the Swiss Alps, is renowned for its stunning landscapes and iconic peaks, including the majestic Wetterhorn, the legendary Jungfrau, and the formidable Mönch, making it a haven for mountaineers and nature enthusiasts.
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