Allalinhorn and Aletschhorn
Climbing Expedition Report
Allalinhorn and
Aletschhorn
Introduction: An Unexpected Invitation
During a family vacation, I received a message on Facebook from a Dutch mountaineer living in Switzerland. He proposed the idea of climbing together, and I readily accepted; after all, I had never met any other Dutch alpinists. For our mutual safety, we decided to hire a guide as we were still getting acquainted. Our goal was to climb Aletschhorn, a mountain soaring to 4,193 meters in the Bernese Alps. Our journey would commence in Blatten bei Naters, in the canton of Valais, Switzerland. In preparation for this ascent, I aimed to gain some experience with a north face climb. The Allalinhorn, at 4,027 meters, with a beautiful wall to start with, seemed like the perfect training ground. The ascent involved a total elevation gain of about 600 meters, including a steep wall with a gradient of 45-50 degrees.
Climbing the Allalinhorn
On September 4th, I drove to Switzerland, headed for the Saas Valley. I had booked a single room at Hotel Adler in Saas-Almagell. After a long drive, I arrived, checked in, and grabbed some food. The next morning, I rose early to catch the first lift to Mittelallalin, the highest underground metro station in Europe at 3,457 meters. However, the metro station is surrounded by many ski slopes, which somewhat diminish the mountain’s charm. After leaving the station, I ventured onto the snow, donning crampons and securing two ice axes to my double leash. I crossed the ski slope, quickly reaching the starting point of the northeast ridge. This was a fairly straightforward snow ridge that I followed up to the seracs. Beyond the seracs lay the bergschrund, which I managed to navigate easily, and then I progressed up the steep wall.
There were four other climbers in the wall ahead of me – a guide with his client and a German father and son, with whom I struck up a conversation. The wall was in great condition, and about one and a half hours after leaving the metro station, I reached the summit. The Allalinhorn is a popular mountain for first-time climbers due to its relative brevity, hence the bustling atmosphere on the top. A young Swiss man took a few photos of me, and I took a short break. The German father and son arrived later, and we shook hands. They asked if I’d like to descend with them, tied by the same rope – the safest choice, especially considering the snow bridges on the glacier below. We descended smoothly and later made our way back via cable cars and the metro.
Climbing the north face of Allalinhorn was a significant milestone for me. I had now checked off a 4,000-meter peak and successfully completed my first north face climb. Moreover, I’d had a thoroughly enjoyable day.
Preparations for the Aletschhorn
The next day, I picked up Jonas at the train station in Brig, and we drove up the pass to Blatten bei Naters, where we were set to meet our guide, Thomas. We took a cable car to a mountain station higher up and then hiked to the Oberaletsch Hut. This trek led us through a particularly wild and picturesque section of the Alps. We followed a trail alongside the Oberaletsch Glacier and reached the hut, located at 2,640 meters.
Although 2,640 meters isn’t exceptionally high, the next day’s target was 4,193 meters. We knew we had significant altitude gain ahead of us. Following a delicious evening meal, we retired early since the alarm was set for an early start.
Climbing the Aletschhorn: A Stunning Ascent
The following morning, after breakfast, we readied our gear and headed out. We trekked onto the Oberaletsch Glacier, walking atop this moraine-covered glacier, following a route marked with reflectors. After leaving the loose rocks behind, a hiking trail led us to the next glacier. Here, we roped up as this glacier was riddled with crevasses. At this point, I began to feel the effects of the altitude, and my pace temporarily slowed. However, this was a common occurrence for me, and within half an hour, I’d acclimatized and we were back at full speed.
After a rock section that was easy to climb, we reached the summit at 10:00 AM. The view from the peak was breathtaking, surrounded by ice and rock with no signs of human habitation. It was a truly magical environment and offered the most beautiful panoramic view I had ever seen in the Alps.
After spending half an hour savoring the summit, we discussed our descent. We decided to opt for a traverse, descending towards the Mittelallalin Glacier. The descent led along a magnificent snow ridge, where we occasionally glissaded. From there, we descended towards the col between the Aletschhorn and the Dreieckhorn. After the col, we walked to the right of the glacier into the Mittelaletsch Valley, toward the Mittelal
tech Bivouac, which had been flattened by an avalanche. We faced some challenges navigating this part of the trail, including rushing through a waterfall. We had to hurry because this area often experienced icefalls with masses of ice as large as city buses. Soaking in the icy waters was a small price to pay for our safety. We continued through the valley, ultimately crossing the Aletsch Glacier to Märjelensee beneath the Eggishorn.
Crossing the Aletsch Glacier was an adventure in itself. While it appeared flat from above, walking over it proved quite the opposite. It took us more than an hour to traverse it, but the experience was well worth it. Upon reaching the other side, we had to walk for another hour and a half to reach the Fiescheralp, where we would catch a cable car back down. Unfortunately, we realized that we had just over half an hour to reach the last lift, so we hurried to make it in time.
Half an hour later, we were at the station and managed to catch the last cable car down to Fiesch. From there, we took a train to Brig, where I said goodbye to Jonas. Thomas and I took a taxi to Blatten, where we bid each other farewell. I then began my descent toward the Goppenstein car train and booked a hotel near Thun. I arrived there around 11:00 PM and quickly got some much-needed sleep.
Conclusion: Pushing Limits and Building Friendships
The climb took us 17 hours, a journey that typically spans three days. We’d successfully summited two 4,000-meter peaks, achieved a north face climb, and I had formed a strong friendship with Jonas. It was a highly productive adventure, filled with memorable experiences and incredible vistas.
Summiting Together
and Team Expedition
Embarking on a mountaineering journey sparked by an unexpected invitation, the ascent of Aletschhorn and Allalinhorn became a testament to collaborative effort. The decision to hire a guide for mutual safety underscored the initial stages of teamwork. Climbing the Allalinhorn, our international team of climbers forged bonds and shared experiences, ensuring a safe and enjoyable ascent. This preparatory climb not only marked personal milestones but laid the foundation for the challenging ascent of the Aletschhorn. As we faced the daunting altitude gain and navigated crevasse-laden glaciers, our team unity and collaboration were indispensable. The triumphant summiting of both peaks, spanning a remarkable 17-hour climb, not only pushed our limits but solidified the bonds of friendship formed during this high-altitude adventure.
Aletschhorn Allalinhorn,
Detail
The Aletschhorn, standing at 4,193 meters in the Bernese Alps, and the Allalinhorn, a majestic peak at 4,027 meters with a notable north face climb, showcase the breathtaking beauty and technical challenges of high-altitude mountaineering in the Swiss Alps.
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